“It was near the end of my Newfoundland vacation when I spend over a month hiking into the backcountry every year. Paul Wylezol who heads the IATNL was eager to do some exploring and suggested hiking into the hills south of Little Port not far from the community of Lark Harbour, on the northwest side of Bay of Islands. There is an intriguing loop onto one coastal ridgeline near Little Port called Little Port Head Lighthouse Trail. It involves an invigorating climb and descent with dramatic views of the shoreline cliffs on top. Unfortunately, the southern end of this trail has seen serious erosion in recent years. Paul’s intent was to explore the ridgelines south of that trail.
It all began so innocently as we headed south from Little Port on a well maintained ATV trail.
Paul was familiar with the ATV trails in this area, but neither of us had ventured onto the ridgelines that parallel the coast. We scampered up the first hill we came to.
Its barren top gave a nice view of Cedar Cove just south of Little Port. Paul, who has been the master mind of numerous trail cuts was thinking a nice trail could be made there.
The ridge south of there looked rather intimidating and probably not worth the energy attempting an ascent to its exposed headland.
We returned to the ATV trail and continued south to Long Ponds.
Continually eyeing the ridge, we soon fixated on a fractured area where rock spires were framed against the skyline. Not being a geologist, it was hard to imagine how the rock in that section became so shattered.
Consulting with the owner of a pond-side cabin we were told those highlands were called the Virgin Mary Hills. Lured by that name and the craggy landscape before us, we soon headed away from the comfort of an ATV highway into the unknown.
Crossing bogs and undulating forestland brought us to the base of the ridge. Gazing up, the rocky towers and strewn boulders ahead looked even more captivating up close. The fate of this mission was sealed.
It was quickly apparent we wouldn’t obtain this goal without countless struggles through bands of tuckamore and clambers over truck sized boulders. The thought of trying to create a trail here never surfaced.
Fortunately, the distance wasn’t great and cresting the ridge afforded expansive views of the coast.
Surrounding us were looming rock formations and delicately balanced boulders
and crevasses big enough to swallow you if you let them.
Pausing in awe-struck amazement we must have looked like two wide-eyed kids in a candy store.
Attempting to perceive this as safe was futile, and how two old geezers became possessed enough to stray so far from their comfort zone I can’t explain.
And lo, even in this bare-rock cavernous setting colorful life flourishes, dulling the edge of the unsettling surroundings
A final push through leaning rock slabs and a keyhole slot
brought us to a manageable pitch where we could descend to a lower talus slope, allowing the adrenaline rush to finally subside.
A miserable choice of an exit route back to the ATV trail led us through some of the thickest tuckamore I’ve ever tried to penetrate.
Roaming the backcountry of Newfoundland is so often a jumbled mix of frustration and ecstasy!
The punishment amplifies the joy, and that addictive combination is what keeps me coming back for more, year after year.”
Lew Coty August, 2023
